Pruning specifications

[Joe]

During my training and in many other articles I've read it seems to be accepted that when a reduction cut is made to a tree, the remaining should be at least 1/3rd the size of the cut branch. Therefore the tree is dictationg where the cut needs to be. In practice this can be a challenge when trying to work to a specification- very often where you may need to make the cut there is only a small branch.

The problem can also be species dependant- a 'reduction' cut on a Norway Maple or an Ash will only thin the crown as the smaller branch can be just as long as the cut branch, just smaller in diameter.

So when working in a tree I end up taking longer because I have these dilemas going on- stick to the spec. or respect the tree!

Is there an easier way?

The obvious solution is don't reduce these species, crown thin, but when quoting for work one is given a spec. and you wouldn't really turn down work because the cuts can't be done in the right place would you...

At least crown thinnig is easier!

[masterwoodsman]

I sympathise with your dilema-

Feel for it is something your only going to gain with years of practice, and also with this youll gain the experiance and confidance to know when the spec is unworkable. It is a fact that the vast majority of specs are wanting, for a start they are assessed from ground views and as any climber well knows, all the best plots and plans can change on entering the crown of a large tree.

It is essential as a climber to be flexible in ones approach to a reduction, you must do what is right for the tree in the long term and wont cause issues later on. you must have conviction to prune to the tree and explain firmly that specs are just that and have to be flexible for the sake of BS if nothing else and thats standards not Bull! try to understand that generaly we are reducing to alleviate wieght, to balance a crown or to increase light into the area. and that 10% 20% 30% means mostly foliage area NOT HIEGHT which is a long standing area of confusion between industry and public. Also it is in the idustry taken that the crown is the area, the public measure in thier minds to the ground! you need to understand a public view as aposed to a proffesional view of the tree, and some how mediate the void and come to a compromise in a tricky situation.

Now, to my main grip with the thinning comments, now listen all you overzelous thinners, I am all for good work and thinning is one of the things done so badly in the business its shamefull. It must be done evenly, almost unoticeably, and NOT ever just the middle or major limbs, for a start some poor monkie has to climb the tree next time, secondly youll leave nowt to reduce to for the next guy whos going to have to do what needed doing in the first place because now the thinned tree has extended its limbs faster longer as a result of the thinning the client knows thinning and wants reduction. All the poor climber can do is go to the very limit of the canopy to make a fine reduction of leave a semi/high pollard with little growth, not a sense of pride I can tell thee!

More importantly, thinning has negative affects, it pushes the canteen of carbs ever higher, and reduces the ability of the stem to secondary thicken made doubly worse as the end loading was increased by the thin and then quadrupled by extension growths! Any future cuts made near the main stem will be harder for the tree to occlude as the carbs from photosynthesis are out of reach, extending decay possibilities and further reductiuon in reserves as the tree then has to compartmentalise the infection and loses storage capacity in the stem.

THIN BY REDUCTION! do it subtle so no one realises! and keep some suitable anchor/growth points throughout the crown, for the trees sake if not the climbers!

I reckon 90% of climbers dont think in terms of the trees life cycle and future physiology when pruning, we must address this issue as in its old age/senessence the tree can become a thing of awe and grace and provide many generations with a rare pleasure, the ancient tree.

Think about a trees optimum form in its old age, reduce down, not thin up, please guys use your heads, think about the next 200 years not the payment at the end of the job.

rant over, was this useful by the way! lol

[Joe]

Thanks for that, valid point about thinning by reducing, carbohydrates having to travel further etc.

Where poss. Ive always tied to pursuade clients to have their trees thinned rather than reduced on the grounds that:

-the reason for pruning is to gain light and the tree will always endeavor to be the height 'written' in its genes,
-thinning properly is a more permanent job, when thinning I try to take small branches from the ends, as you say the leaf cover.

I think pehaps you're also refering to 'lion tailing'. Here here! Thanks for the response, sometimes I just get a little peaved with being asked to do something unrealistic by a suit that gives away that he/she hasn't been 'on the tools'!

Joe

[masterwoodsman]

And that my friend is the exact issue I am talking about, what is easiest!

MOST climbers given a thin, will sling a rope over a comfy branch and "clean out" the middle job done, home by 2pm.

there is not one tree that cant be reduced, its just a question of difficulty, and if its too difficult to do, you need more practice or your in the wrong game!

I will grant you Norway maple is one of the most difficult to reduce well, they have fine and very brittle branches and their dense natures leave little internal framework to reduce to, but even these can be done, with CARE.

The trick with ash and beech too is to take out the DOMINANT leader in the cluster leaving the two sub branches as new tips this way the tree looks unchanged, is thinned by a healthy amount and all internal growth remains for even distribution of carbs and a future reduction point should the tree develop crown retrenchment at a later date.

I wasnt just refering to lions tailing which is an often misunderstood practice which involves taking out the heavy end and leaving a sub as the new leader, and being the ONLY foliage bearer on that stem. over thinning is where the outer perimeter of the crown is left untouched and all inner growth is removed, this is what most lazy climbers or newbies do.